Tuesday, October 30, 2012

No**algia In Paris


For two years the chefs at The Culinary Institute of America harped at me the importance of knowing the classic French foundations. This meant that words like “mise en place”, “au sec”, and “chiffonade” were all vital parts of my everyday vernacular. At the time, it sometimes seemed silly to use such particular and old-fashioned language, yet the school insisted upon following in the ways of the traditional French chefs.

I graduated almost two years ago, but this past weekend I finally fully appreciated the French foundations of my alma mater.

In Paris every corner I turned displayed of the techniques and terms I spent so long learning. Confits, gastriques, and braises were found chalked on every menu board I passed, reminding me of the long hours spent in the kitchens of Roth Hall. It was the paradise that a true gourmand could appreciate knowing the rich history and culture that surrounded the food.


In between seeing the breathtaking sights of Paris I had some incredible food, which included the most decadent hot chocolate of my life, a perfect crepe, and a surprising Caribbean lunch at a Sunday market.

Such decadent hot chocolate at Angelina's 
A nutella crepe at the foot of the Eiffel Tower, what more could you ask for?
While these were all wonderful, the true epicurean delight of the trip was the opportunity to utilize those French techniques of The Culinary by actually cooking.

After an afternoon espresso with my roommate, (which was a Parisian experience in itself) we shopped in the neighborhood around our hostel for our dinner. First stop was the boulangerie where we picked up two baguettes. Next we crossed the street to get some fresh produce at a grocer before grabbing some cheese, chicken, and foie gras on the corner. Lastly, we picked up a few bottles of Bordeaux and Beaujolais to enjoy with our meal.

Granted, it was a hostel kitchen which meant wrestling to dice a sweet potato with a butter knife, but it felt great to cook nonetheless. The meal had a quick salad topped with fruit (grapes and orangas), toasted walnuts, seared foie gras and a balsamic vinaigrette. There was also sauteed chicken, a side of fresh vegetables, and torn off hunks of chewy baguette with fromage.

Nostalgia filled me as I shared this meal with my roommates because I remembered learning all of the different techniques I used for the dinner at The Culinary. Somehow, I appreciated knowing the proper way to sear foie gras or to emulsify a vinaigrette even more in Paris. Perhaps it was the culinary capital sweeping me up in it’s magic, but every aspect of cooking that meal (even cursing the crummy sauté pan for being bent and uneven) felt pure.

I’ve always been a proud graduate of The Culinary Institute of America, but now thanks to Paris I truly understand the importance of the French culinary education I received.

Wednesday, October 17, 2012

Bad Has Never Tasted Better


Illegal pastries.

Get your minds out of the gutter! I wasn’t in Amsterdam this weekend, I was just eating delicious bakery treats that happened to be criminal on the streets of Lisbon!

I place complete blame on our tour guide, Bruno of “We Hate Tourism Tours”, for inspiring 6 girls to break the law in the name of sugar. It all began as he whipped us around the steep streets of his hometown in a convertible Jeep. Besides giving us a truly local perspective of the city, Bruno also gave us the inside foodie scoop for the weekend.

Bruno!
His first “must eat” took us to the neighborhood of Belém (literally, he drove us there after the typical end of the tour because he was just that nice!) Here, Bruno dropped us off at the best spot for pastéis de Belém, the bakery treat we just couldn’t leave Lisbon without tasting. Taking our little cream pies to go, we sat down in the adjoining park to see what all the fuss was about in Belém.

¡Joder! The Portuguese know their pastries! Perfectly sweet, slightly warm custard cupped in a phyllo dough like shell that delicately flaked with each bite.

Pasteis de Belem
The wild success of Bruno’s first suggestion prompted a group decision to follow his advice for the rest of the weekend. After kebobs and plenty of delicious seafood, we were hunting a pastry that’s deemed “illegal” because of an ordinance prohibiting bakeries from operating past midnight in Lisbon.

Seafood lunch on the waterfront 
The gist of Bruno’s directions were to go to a street he pointed out on the tour, bar hop our way up, and at about 2 a.m sniff the air for the smell that could only come from fresh treats being pulled from an oven. He warned though that if the police were around the window would be closed, so some patience could be needed.

We tried the first night and failed, never being able to stumble upon the shop. Totally bummed, we saw Bruno the next day at the market and got better instructions. Determined, we hit the street again and found the unmarked window of the bakery open for business.

Money passed, brown bags were handed out, and we quickly found a spot to eat these incredibly worked up pastries.

Being bad has never been so sweet. We sat there passing gorgeous and delectable pastries back and forth, completely satisfied.



The bakery shop pumping out pastries 
One of the "illegal pastries"


Lisbon, you are beautiful, unpretentious, and delicious. Thanks for the great weekend, I’m heading to the gym now…

Wednesday, October 10, 2012

München


Born a Georgia peach and raised a Midwestern gal, I like to think I know a thing or two about hospitality and charm. After visiting Oktoberfest this weekend I’ve decided that the Germans take the cake when it comes to amenability, and they also have one of the best festivals for any foodie to drool over.

Inside the tents you’re forced to squeeze onto a bench next to complete strangers. A waitress (wearing the super cliché outfit and called a “beer wench”) comes over with twelve steins, six in each hand, and drops them on your table. After clinking glasses and bellowing “prost!” the strangers quickly become like your oldest friends.

Bier! 

Hofbräuhaus beer tent
Although we met people from all across Europe, the Germans were some of my favorite people to sit next to in the tents. Their pride for their culture was contagious, and always they were there to answer any questions we had about the different traditions of Oktoberfest. Curious about why the men wear lederhosen? I learned it was what the working class wore until the 19th century when it became more of a costume representative of Bavarian culture.

See Mom and Dad, it was educational!

Not Germans, but great friends nonetheless! 
My new German friends also were quick to recommend some of the gastronomical specialties of Oktoberfest. Bratwursts, Wiener schnitzel, and strudels were amongst the favorites of the locales and all of them were delicious. The bratwurst was smeared with mustard, topped with sauerkraut, and had the natural casing that snapped perfectly with each bite. Dare I say it was better than those in Wisconsin? (sorry!) 

While the traditional foods were tremendous, my personal choice was not necessarily German. Rather, the best thing I ate at Oktoberfest was a whole roasted Mackerel that caught eyes of our group as we walked past to a beer tent. Immediately, we made plans to go back for lunch, a decision we definitely didn’t regret!

Salt, charcoal, and the sweetness of the sea were the only seasonings. It was some of the most pure seafood I’ve ever enjoyed and from an environment I would have never guessed.

the fish lined up over the charcoals


delicious!


I loved every moment I spent in Germany and would highly recommend experiencing Oktoberfest once in your lifetime. The Germans will welcome you with a cold stein of world-famous bier in one hand and a pillowy pretzel bigger than your head in the other!